Do you know what is a REALLY good idea to have when your neighborhood has occasional brownouts?
Take a guess.
Do you know what helps protect your 3D printer and octoprint server from someone accidentally flipping the wrong light switch?
Go ahead, guess.
Do you know what helps you connect to the rest of your network so you can hurriedly shut things down when you have a neighborhood power outage?
Did you guess a UPS? Good for you! You got it!
Yes, after too many close calls and losing 8 hours on a 12hr print, I’ve finally put the Snapmaker on a UPS, as well as the router, web server, and cable modem.
Now, I know that in all likelihood, if there’s a neighborhood outage the cable line will lose power too, so I’m really not betting on having 30min of internet access while waiting for the power to come back on. (though that would be pretty cool)
some sort of monitoring on the big ups downstairs that will tell the two PIs to shut down 15 min after the power goes out so I don’t have to scramble in the middle of the night.
For a little while now I”ve been trying to come up with a replacement body and cap for my Pilot Parallel pens. The stock bodies are very thin and lightweight. I prefer my pens to be a little wider and to have a little more weight to them. Also, I get the historical precedent for the elongated shape, but that doesn”t mean I have to use it.
So, given all of that, I decided to start designing my own. Thankfully the threads around the base of the collar are standard metric threads. The double threading on the cap was a pain and I eventually scrapped it and made my own metric threads.
The whole trial and error experience lead me through several iterations and design ideas. I learned a lot and even learned some tricks with Fusion 360.
I really like how they turned out in the rainbow silk pla. I”ve got some wood pla set to print next.
While our Snapmaker 2.0 has been wonderful to use, it need to under extrude just a little bit. I decided to bite the bullet and try to perform an Extruder Calibration.
I followed the steps in this post on the Snapmaker forums, and it was pretty easy. About 15 min of marking, extruding and performing the math, and I found myself extruding at the proper rate. 100mm is now 100mm, and not 86 like it had been.
Now, with every 3D-Print change, there’s balancing that needs to happen. I had tweaked profile settings enough that my prints were turning out pretty good. Now they’re over-extruded. This is where the balancing comes into play. Now to figure out what to un-tweak./
First step is to make sure other hardware settings are correct. So I’ll be working on the Liner Advance first. With this turorial video and this Marlin documentation, I hope to make some progress soon.
Inversely, if I’d left things alone it’d be printing just fine for the most part…
And on that note, after much testing, oddly enough, I was much better off. looks like having an accurate E-Step causes over extrusion. I’ve since gone back to the default 212.21 that it ships with.
It”s finally here! For Christmas as a gift to ourselves, we decided to upgrade from our XYZ Davinci Jr. 2.0 Mix to a Snapmaker 2.0 A350.
The original printer we have is good, but it”s got a very small build area for some of the things I wanted to design and print. The color mix option is really cool. But it”s biggest faults are the NFC chipped filaments that are required for use, and the software to slice the prints.
The NFC chips are a neat idea, they pre-set the heating information and keep a loose track of how much filament is supposed to be on the spool. However, if you try to load filament that isn”t chipped, then it won”t print. You can just mount a pair of chips to it, after removing them from the spools, but then you have to deal with the persistent warnings that your spools “are most likely empty”.
We”ll still keep it around, but it”s time to upgrade.
Enter the Snapmaker 2.0 A350, a nice large 3-in-1. The build area on this thing is HUGE compared to what we had before. Assembly wasn”t too bad, leisurely got it into a running condition in about an hour.
The initial calibration took a few tries after the firmware upgrade, mostly because I”m used to dealing with a nozzle that”s a little larger. The nozzle on this is VERY fine.
Currently my first print is chirping away on the print bed as the actuators move everything around. Yes, it”s very very chirpy.
Looking forward to all the projects this new system will able to make happen!
That feeling when you look at your print and realize that the basement is too cold for printing from here on out, until spring.
Will have to make a deal with the family to see about moving it upstairs to resume printing of ornaments.